From the White Guide Nordic 2018:


Very Fine Level 67
Food rating:28/40Service rating:13/20
Banqueting roomsTables outsideWheelchair accessVegetarian dishesAmerican Express

Traditions and Innovations

Despite the fact that Valtera is situated in the ultimate tourist-vortex of Riga’s Old Town, it caters more to adventurous eaters than to those who are looking for the hop-on-hop-off bus and a cheap hot dog. The first thing you’ll notice upon entering a is a big blackboard with Chef Valter Zirdzinsh’s handwritten passages about his interest in local ingredients and the future of Latvian cuisine. Then you’ll take in the place itself, a humble and country-style joint, with arched ceilings, massive doorways, wooden flooring, paintings by local artists and frilly lighting. Seasonality and commitment to local products dictate the menu; dry-aged beef tartare with mustard seeds, egg yolk, onions and cheese is fanned out on slices of quick pickled cucumbers, and served with homemade bread. You can’t visit Valtera without trying the smoked eel. Although the size of the dish is relatively small, the flavor is just tremendous and the accouterments are stellar; potato confit, pickled red onions and dill sauce. The presentation isn’t bad either, the dish is dramatically brought out under a smoking cover. All of it ingenious in its simplicity. Slow-cooked pork with onions, mushroom sauce and herbed breadcrumbs is a solid main course. Don’t be surprised when the soup is poured from a copper pitcher or a dish is served in a beaker, Chef Zirdzinsh relishes creativity almost as much as he enjoys regaling his guests with chalkboard musings. The best time to visit is in the evening when the place is just crawling with people, it allows you to experience Valtera’s wild, true spirit...

To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.

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