From the White Guide Nordic 2018:


Fine Level 85
Food rating:25/40Service rating:20/20
Tables outsideVegetarian dishes
  • Address: Ülikooli 11, Tartu
  • Phone: +372 742 6377
  • Seats: 74

Yes, Do Go Upstairs

The Werner is among the most iconic cafés in not just the town of Tartu, but the whole Estonia. A perennial favorite of notable Estonian artists and cultural heavyweights through decades, it has always appealed with great coffee and amazing cakes. Every now and then, restaurants have started upon the first floor of the café, but they have always fizzled out. This year’s attempt, however, might well stand a chance. The atmosphere, inspired from the 1930s, displays restraint, which is a pleasant change in the otherwise very vibrant university town. The food seeks to stand out above the milieu. Laconically called Broth, the soup is made oftomato bouillon, smoked zander, shrimp, quail’s egg and herbs. The melt-in-the-mouth, sweet-and-sour taste initially seems restrained as well, but grows on you with eachfollowing spoonful. The rainbow trout entrée with its crispy skin is tuned into perfect harmony with the smoked fish-potato cream, butter sauce and dill oil. Traditional Estonian bread soup has inspired a dessert, where the bread has been whipped into pillowy foam with some help from gelatin and served with stewed cherries and rum ice cream. The drinks list is slightly more unassuming, but does feature Estonia's own sparkling rhubarb wine Rabarbra, beers by the atmospheric Käbliku farmstead-brewery in Tartu County (visit if you can!) and a few interesting cocktails. So, dogo upstairs at the Werner. May they never lack in resolve and resilience...

To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.

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